Friday, July 11. 2008Port fees, Windjammer Flying Cloud, HMS Nymph...Odds and ends
Here is a couple articles taken out of the newspapers on the new Harbor Charges, although I understand, that there have been changes since then so this is old info in some ways...
![]() ![]() Two other interesting articles that are from the BVI Yacht Guide 1) Search for the HMS Nymph in Road Harbor 2) "Sink the Flying Cloud Project by the BVISO Too late for me to even find any pictures tonight, but if you follow the link to this months issue of the Yacht Guide they have pictures of them there! Article in the BVI Yacht Guide on Norman Island and Money Bay- Changes in Paradise
I wrote this article in Julys BVI Yacht Guide And here is the PDF of it as well...Changes in Paradise
![]() Take into account that I wrote this in a very emotional state, so it is not backed up by any fact, it was just the way I was feeling, and can still feel when I read it. Letters to the Editor - When I came to the islands a short 10 years ago our favourite anchorage, that we always thought we were the first people on earth to discover, was Money Bay on Norman Island. It would be some grand adventure that we would build up with our guests, that we would go to the outside of Norman Island, weather depending, and anchor so we could tie our stern onto shore with no people, no other boats as it only fit one good sized boat, no anchor lights, no street lights and stars everywhere. We could make out the glow of St. Croix in the distance. We had no cell service, no Internet, and would spend the time diving for sand dollars, combing the beach for shells, and often having a bonfire on the beach. There was one perfect little beach that was just right in the corner, and we would surf the swell if it came around the point on kayaks that would deposit us right up on the shore. ![]() ![]() There was a little salt pond in the back and you could climb to the top if you had on good shoes, long pants and did not mind a few prickles along the way! I think I cried the day that I saw the orange survey pegs on the land there and found out that there would be high-end houses going in. Our peaceful out-of-the-way place was shattered next by the sight of bulldozers cutting roads around the island and levelling out the ground. Next it was a rock-landing barge over the perfect small white sandy beach in the corner. Now, they were not satisfied with ruining the sandy beach, they have also made a much larger landing platform, and a breakwater on the other side, where the boats used to stern-to along the rocks, right over where we collected our sand dollars and watched the pipe fish. ![]() The day I knew I had to sadly say good-bye in my heart to my favourite "deserted" anchorage was the day we pulled in and there were no boats, BUT there was a group of 6-8 people standing on the beach who had walked over the hill on the road! A sad memory. ![]() Never again will we find Spanish bibles on the ground there when the illegal immigrants that had paid someone a lot of money in St. Martin to take them to the USVI would be dropped off on these beaches being told that it was the US, as it was so much easier for them to avoid the US Coast Guard by NOT taking them to St. John. We will not tell the tales of the policemen hunting goats for meat and shooting practice back there, or the tales around the campfire at night, with no lights in sight. ![]() ![]() Privateer Bay on Norman Island was (and is) the only place that I have seen seahorses in the Virgin Islands. We would always anchor in Privateer Bay, of course, all the bare-boats would head for the Bight even then with all the mooring balls. The reef at the Caves was still a great snorkel, and a favourite night dive. Yes, the fish were hand fed even back then. It was a standing joke that when you needed the bottom of your boat cleaned that you would stay there for awhile and let the Blue Tangs do the job! You could see one of the best sunsets around over St. John. Yes, it was busy during the day, and even then I used to say that it was "our sacrificial reef" for the cruise ships. I did not know what I was talking about. I would love to go back 10 years there. The reef there eventually became known to us as "toilet paper reef" as all the day boats flushed their heads constantly, and if we were going for a dive, the most you could do is count how many old masks and fins that you could pick up that the boats had lost! Right down in the corner, where boats used to anchor, mooring balls arrived....and the beauty of that bay was maybe lost a little more for us when we had a commercial mooring operator give us a hard time because we preferred to anchor as opposed to picking up his mooring ball and paying $20 (the fee then!) Guests brought me down video footage of them taking out White Squall for a week-long charter back in the late 60s. The video showed them the only boat in the Bight! Down in the south-west corner there used to be a careenage from many days gone by. Now, you better not try to go through the mooring field in a stiff wind, as you will have a hard time dodging all the boats. I would not swim in the Bight any longer. Maybe right out on the point. 10 years ago, Willy T's was there, and was about the hottest place for nightlife in the BVI! I remember when anyone who was anyone went over there on Sunday afternoons for lunch and then a party. No self-respecting expat would miss it and I swear they came by dinghy, kayak, or paddleboard from Tortola or St. Thomas to get here. Of course, that was in the days, that although it was certainly illegal to go back and forth between the USVI and the BVI without checking in, you were occasionally tempted to do it by "changing the courtesy flag on the boat" and knowing that if you got caught they would tell you not to do it again and let you go! I honest to goodness told a Customs agent once that I "forgot" to check in and I was admonished not to do it again. Do not try that now. You could walk up behind the careenage to the top of the hill and see the ruins of an old lookout. You may still be able to see the old ruins, but you will also see the helicopter landing pad as well that will be bringing in the well-heeled owners and guests to Norman Island. The tales of Treasure Island and finding treasure chests back in the caves just don't have the same ring to them any more on Norman Island. There had been a rumour at one time that boaters' access to these bays and the caves would be cut off once it was developed. We have heard and told stories about buried treasure on the island for many years and it will surely be found by the developers with their backhoes digging ground for the villas going in. We have taken away a lot of the "mystery" that the BVI has had over the centuries. Our tales of finding chests of coins in the far reaches of the caves at Treasure Point, the rumours of many a chest buried on the island, do not have the same ring. When we would spin our pirate tales to our guests, it became a magical place to them as well. I used to look around me and marvel that I had the good fortune to live on the water in the British Virgin Islands. Even after doing years of charters, the sense of awe and beauty I felt when I looked around at the islands while cooking yet another charter meal for 12 guests in a hot galley was without parallel. Ever. In my entire life. No other place has hit me like the British Virgin Islands had. It quietened my soul. I was never tired of the milk run around the islands. I could never understand why I read everywhere that "there are no longer any deserted anchorages in the BVI." We could always find them. We tended to go anywhere but where the mooring balls were, as to us it was like being in a Wal-Mart parking lot. We thrilled in pelicans, sought out the out-of-the-way-dives and snorkel places that most others would not even think about, or be bothered to take the extra steps to make sure their guests saw the best we had to offer. At a conservative guess, I have personally done close to 300 week-long circles here. Every year, there was another development going up, another marina going in, another favourite spot that either was "off limits" or under construction. A few years ago, I started wondering just where exactly we were supposed to cruise TO now that we had built all these marinas? Certainly our guests, and we have been a BVI active charter yacht for almost thirty years, did not come down here to see marinas. Picture what I said above, about ONE island, and we have over 60 islands and cays, and you will know why I have become involved in my small way. Kerry Hucul is an owner of a long-term charter business who plays an active role in the environmental community. Tuesday, July 8. 2008A family weekend for me! The other blogger checking in from Edmonton!
And lots of family, family I have not seen for many many years in some cases. We left Victoria on the ferry over to Anacortes so I could download some more books onto my Kindle and mail off some boxes of "stuff" down to the boat. As usual on the FERRY it was freezing and we only went outside for this picture! We are smiling through frozen teeth here!
![]() So after having gone to Costco, and the Casino, and the Malls etc in a different country we were ready to drive back into BC and go up to Edmonton. It was a pretty drive and we did stop at Blue River to take a helicopter tour, hoping to see no Grizzly Bears, but none other then where on the signs at the side of the road! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() My parents thought it was great not to do any driving at all on this trip and were quite comfortable fighting over "who got the better viewing chair" in the aft! ![]() Then, Just like children do, when they had finished bickering they fell asleep! ![]() We are a strange looking family. Every female on the Macdonald side sits exactly like this! YOu will see some similar looks as the pictures go on. This is not one of my mothers better pictures! ![]() We showed up in Edmonton to find my brother (3 years younger) ![]() Off we went to the Edmonton Aviation Museum to celebrate my great aunt (my grandmothers sisters) 50th wedding anniversary. ![]() You seeing any kind of resemblence here? Wait till you see the cousins about my age! ![]() My oldest son Chad and his girlfriend came over to hang with the old folks for awhile..... ![]() And this is just my parents, brother, husband and i getting ready to go that evening. See, I have wedding clothes on again! ![]() This is a picture of my great grandparents! Back in Edmonton in the 1950s. ![]() And here is my family with my son Chad and Christina ![]() My mom with some of her relatives... ![]() There were a lot of people there, and all the grandchildren put on a talent show which featured Ballet to Hip Hop to Classical! It was very nice! AND we stayed out past the witching hour! I think it was midnight before we left!! I guess when you have not seen some of the people for 30 years, it takes awhile to get through them! This is purely for comparison purposes, thanks to Doreen to sending them along. If you start to think the BVI is too crowded, you can always shift countries and start going to the Beach in China. After these pictures when I received them there was only one comment "guess where they go to the washroom!" So after this, Cane Garden Bay will not look that bad! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() And then back to the BVI, here is a PDF of the July Article in Sport Diver Magazine on diving in the BVI I have also been hard at work doing a new web site for the BVISO sinking project of the Windjammer Flying Cloud, although not finished, I think it is ready to throw open the doors to see whether I get any tomatoes thrown at me! The link to that is Windjammer Flying Cloud This only takes me to last Friday night, but since it is 330 in the morning, and i have to get up early, the rest will wait for a day or so! Saturday, July 5. 2008DRAMATIC CLOSE TO BVI ENVIRONMENTAL MONTH
I received this press release on the Beef Island Development, as you know, I have followed this quite closely. I cannot believe that 18,000 signatures were collected! That is incredible!
There has been so many people that have donated a lot of time and money to this effort, I certainly hope that it remains untouched. I have heard that the lawyers have been trying to find "dates that match" their schedules so they agree on an appeal date. The lawyers for the developer had appealed the last win by the VIEC lawyers that the case could go forward... I understand legal stuff about as well as I understand government stuff so I know that it was not worded very well here! DRAMATIC CLOSE TO BVI ENVIRONMENTAL MONTH 18,000 signatures and 3600 comments from around the world presented in support of British Virgin Islands. In an astonishing show of support 600 pages long and 4 inches thick, citizens from not only the BVI but around the world expressed outrage and concern over the development of Beef Island. Spearheaded by the Virgin Islands Environmental Council (VIEC) with the help of Ocean River Institute (ORI- www.oceanriver.org), this letter of concern has now focused international attention on the VIEC’s attempt to have the Virgin Islands Fisheries Act enforced regarding the Hans Creek fisheries protected area as well as the protection of the fragile and pristine ecosystem of Beef Island which has global ramifications. The theme of most of the comments was the need to protect untouched areas for future generations while still others shared experiences, warnings and consequences of unsustainable development including the harmful effects of marinas and golf courses on reef and mangrove systems. Many other calls were for eco-tourism as a potential economy, after all, the BVI continues to garner awards for its nature and peacefulness. This was born out by comments from 46 United States including Virginia: “You can build other 5-star hotels and golf courses. You can’t build other natural eco-systems”. From California: “Golf courses and Marinas are the two most polluting activities you can subject to land and sea!”. Nevada cautions the development “for fear it is going the way of St. Thomas”. Even more impressive was the International Community Members representing most European Countries along with Peru, Venezuela, Mexico, Canada, Australia, and Egypt! From our own Caribbean Basin, Island countries such as Puerto Rico, Jamaica, Bermuda, Bahamas, Turks and Caicos and the USVI express warnings at what happens with too much development. The general thread was that the natural beauty of the Caribbean is what attracts most people. One long time visitor stated “Money is temporary. Extinction is forever.” Finally, from Virgin Gorda, comes “We were given the name “Nature’s Little Secrets” for a reason. We are tampering with the environment to the detriment of future generations”. Full copies of the VIEC letter, along with supporting facts and comments have been delivered to Premier O’Neal, Governor Pearey’s office, Labor and Natural Resources, Conservation and Fisheries, National Park Trust, The Tourist Board and the public Library. On Thursday, July 10th, the program “UMOJA”, Radio station ZBVI 780 AM, 8:00-9:30, will discuss with Dr. Quincy Lettsome how far the VIEC court case has come and the World Importance of it being the first time a group has brought such a law suit against the government for violation of Environmental Laws in the Caribbean. For more information please contact: Dr. Quincy Lettsome, Co-director, Virgin Islands Environmental Council 284-494-5981, e-mailL drqlettsome@hotmail.com Or Sheila Callwood-Schulterbrandt, President at 544-3869 Additional details at www.bvihcg.com , including 300 pages of comments! Friday, July 4. 2008Update on BVI Boat Harbor Charges
Well it it has been an interesting few days around the BVI with meetings going on left and right over the proposed Harbor Charges. The BVICCHA, the Charter Yacht Society, even the tourist board I hear are all working hard to have these fees rescinded until a full impact study can be done. Even the private sector down here is sitting up and taking notice. There has been some comment that even if they are rescinded, the negative publicity will affect us. Perhaps, but I thoroughly believe that it is the negative publicity from one corner of the sector to another, private, crewed, charters, recreational, etc that is forcing the government to take a look at these things. The internet is a big world.
I have had many people ask me why we stayed. I guess the simple answer is that we love it here, and no matter where you go, even if the grass looks greener today, tomorrow they may impose their own onerous hoops. There have been many times that we thought about sticking the boat in the middle of Road Harbor with a sign on it that said "FOR SALE" due to government (insert whatever the new thing was we had to do/jump through or pay!) Most of the Caribbean Countries have tried this one on for size lately, with quick backtracking. Everywhere from St Martin to Bahamas. When we were in St Martin a couple months ago, we were shocked at how full the marinas were on the french side and how empty on the dutch. That is because Dutch St Martin has heavy fees for even being anchored on that side now when you check in, so many more boats are going to the french side. Although then, technically, even when you take your tender across to the Dutch side you are breaking the law! There are people weighing in on these Harbor Charges from the Caribbean 1500 Rally, Private cruisers, charter boats, marinas, restaurants EVERYWHERE! All the message boards are abuzz and every boat owner here who knows anyone in government is making phone calls left and right. Even those of us who have lived here for a long time cannot figure out the ambiguity and meaning of many of the items. So, I do expect there to be many changes in all of this before the 15th of the month. I keep on thinking about the saying "blood from a stone" and that is about what I feel like lately. Anyways, more this weekend, off to a great aunts 50th wedding anniversary tonight!
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